Gračišće – the Slavic Olympus

The place where the gods once lived

Once upon a time, the gods lived on the high green slopes of the central part of Istria, near today's Gračišće, and when you arrive in this area you will see why!

Gračišće emerges on a hill between Pićan and Pazin, as a typical Istrian location. Even 2,000 years ago this medieval town was providing shelter to people when the ancient Gauls gave it the name Gallignana. The current name was given to it at the turn of the 6th to the 7th century by the old Slavs, whose heritage can still be seen in the town streets.

The name of the nearby Perunčevac hill even hides the name of the supreme Slavic god, Perun, while the Slavic heritage is also reflected in the worship of Svantevid, it might be that because of the similarity of the name, Christian Saint Vitus was chosen as the patron saint of the Gračišće parish. The symbol of the god Perun, the perunica, in the shape of a star (a symbol of the Slavic Native Faith in Croatia), used to be carved onto the lintels of houses until the 20th century with the intention of protecting them from lightning strikes and consequent fires.

It was first mentioned in written sources in 1199. During the Middle Ages, the town was the feudal property of the patriarch of Aquileia, then it belonged to the princes of Gorica, and in 1374 it became part of the Duchy of Pazin as part of the private property of the Habsburg family, which leased its properties to nobles. In the past, Gračišće was the most important settlement of the Duchy, and even more economically powerful than Pazin. It was weakened by the wars of the Duchy against the Venetians, the rebellion of the inhabitants against the feudal lords, and in the 19th and 20th centuries it was outside the main traffic routes.

Treasury of cultural heritage

The medieval town of Gračišće was surrounded by strong walls. The fortification system was developed from the 12th to the 16th century, and the walls are still partially preserved on the western, northern and eastern sides of the town. As part of them, the Romanesque town gate on the west side and the round Renaissance tower from 1500 on the east corner have been preserved. Through the town gate, you enter the lodge which dates back to 1549, next to which is a fontik, that is a storehouse for flour and grain that was used by the population to feed themselves in case of famine. Within the defensive walls, the urban structure of the town is somewhat different from other Istrian towns of the time, which makes Gračišće particularly impressive today. Instead of one main square, Gračišće is divided into town districts, each of which has its own square with a church, which is why it was entered in the Register of Cultural Properties.

The most important is the church of St. Mary na Placu (on the square), whose Baroque portico, due to its location on the square, also served as a town lodge, combining both sacral and public functions. In its interior, interesting Glagolitic and Latin graffiti in the Croatian language were found. The most significant are the 15th century frescoes that stretch along the entire eastern wall, depicting the Adoration of the Kings and the contours of the Annunciation on the southern wall. The church was built by master Dento in 1425 according to the order of the local noble Petar Beračić. This fact speaks of the existence of a privileged class in the Middle Ages that had money to build churches, but also palaces such as the nearby Gothic Salamon Palace - the most beautiful Late Gothic profane building to be found in central Istria.

The oldest sacral building in Gračišće, the chapel of St. Anthony is also located on the square. The chapel built in the Gothic style in 1381 by master Almerigo, and it was consecrated in 1486 by Bishop Paskazije of Pićan in his birthplace, when it became part of his residence.

Only this chapel has been preserved from the episcopal complex. In addition to being the oldest preserved sacred building in the town, it also preserves the famous 18th century, Gračišće crucifix, which was restored from 1910 to 1913 by the Central Commission for Research and Protection of Cultural Monuments, along with three Gračišće churches and the former fortress, which confirms its importance.

Most of Gračišće is dominated by the large baroque parish church in the northern part where the Romanesque St. Vitus’ parish church was once located. The new church of St. Vitus, Modestus and Crescentia, built in the second half of the 18th century, at the time of the abolition of the diocese of Pićan and the transfer of jurisdiction to the diocese to Gradiška. Inside the church is a 15th century statue of St. Vitus holding a model of the city in his hand. A 30-metre high bell tower was also built near the church.

Below the plateau of the parish church is St. Euphemia’s church which dates back to 1383. The originally Romanesque-Gothic church was rebuilt in 1846, when it underwent considerable changes. Today it preserves a monumental 13th century crucifix and a restored altar of the Virgin from the church of St. Mary na Placu. Pod Fumiju street, the street of craftsmen, stretches south from the church, and has preserved its original appearance to this day. A particularly interesting detail on the lintel of the blacksmith's house is a carved hammer, a symbol of his craft, and the year 1451.

In the southern part of Gračišće, there is another small church, now in ruins, that was once the brotherhood church of St. Pangrac. It was built in the 14th century, but unfortunately the 15th century frescoes have not been preserved.

Danica***

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